LATEST:

LATEST:


1/10/12 Together again in England. Preparing for our biggest adventure yet.

1/6/12 A final fix of dulce de leche before leaving South America. It is now summer in England, right?

1/5/12 We're sad to leave our friends in Buenos Aires but we're itching to put our backpacks on and head off into the wilds.


Thursday, February 25, 2010

Bonjo Pagoda Festival, Shan State, Burma

A train carriage shared with soldiers, chickens and nuns rode us north to Hsipaw in Shan state. Just in time for a festival at one of Burma's most important Buddhist pagodas.

A mix of various ethnic peoples, Karen, Shan and Palaung, had gathered to form a vibrant market. At the epicentre, the pagoda itself, we discreetly sat and watched the colourful crowds.
Disturbed only occasionally by small plastic pellets fired from toy guns in the hands of novice monks.

Monday, February 22, 2010

Maymyo, Burma

George Orwell's life and work became an important theme for us during our travels. In the 1920s, a young Orwell was posted as a colonial officer to this breezy hill town. We peeked in at his old 'chummery'.

Candacraig Hotel, with its manicured gardens and tennis courts, may look unmistakably English but is now fully government-owned. It's a striking reminder of Burma's wealthy colonial past when its valuable teak forests became one of the jewels of the British Empire.

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Auntie in Mandalay (video clip)

At our chapati stand we digest the news of baby Theo.

Saturday, February 20, 2010

Mandalay, Burma

"Welcome to Mandalay!" exclaimed the young man in the Manchester United shirt. The banners on the walls of the famous palace announced "Foreign Sycophants Shall Be Crushed". Burma's people are distinctly more hospitable than its regime.

In a city as exotic as Mandalay we were happy to simply absorb the bustle from a chapati stand sipping endless tsai before our evening entertainment, the vaudeville troupe, "The Moustache Brothers".

Their tiny front room was the venue for exuberant dancing, slapstick gags and extravagant costumes. We couldn't help but laugh along, if only for the remarkable spirit of the ageing performers. Three members of the family act have spent years in prison for making jokes at the expense of the junta. One is still behind bars.

Friday, February 19, 2010

Rangoon, Burma

Only after much deliberation and research did we purchase a visa for Burma. Neither Russia nor China raised a thought for 'travel ethics', but we now confronted our own backpacker impact. Burma's regime is particularly odious. We made a plan: to go, to see for ourselves and to try to support the people, not the junta. In the process we found a new heroine: Aung San Suu Kyi.
Passports stamped, a flight from Bangkok and we were in Rangoon with its golden national icon of the Shwedagon Pagoda.

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Lost City of Angkor, Cambodia

We braved corrupt immigration police and pestilential tuk-tuk drivers to reach Cambodia's sensational lost city of Angkor. Cambodia felt like a broken country but this was its wonderful jewel.

Daybreak at the main temple of Angkor Wat is a sight worth a thousand photographs; yet it was the enigmatic faces of Bagan temple which really beguiled us.

The innumerable temples hold a mix of imagery drawn from Hinduism, Buddhism, Animism and the reigning god-kings of the time. Built between the 9th and 14th centuries these are archaeological treasures as mysterious as they are stunning.
The site was lost for centuries, allowing the jungle to creep in and intertwine itself with the ancient stone ruins.

Exploring the huge area we couldn't help indulging our Indiana Jones and Lara Croft fantasies.

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Bangkok, Thailand

Sad to leave Laos but keen to pick up our pace, we boarded for an epic train journey through the 'Land of Smiles' to Bangkok.

Often being overwhelmed by the crowds, heat and smells of the big city, we would dive into the tranquility of Wat Pho Temple to admire Bangkok's only laid back citizen: the reclining Buddha.

We were to pass through Bangkok several times over the next six weeks. On the final stay we witnessed, but didn't quite comprehend, the political demonstrations held by the anti-government 'reds'.

Friday, February 5, 2010

Boots in Bangkok (video clip)

After six months of the unfamiliar, Sam spies an old haunt.