Cape Town, South Africa

Back in Cape Town we weren't the only ones on a pilgrimage to Robben Island.

Just after Reconciliation Day the ferry was a joyous riot of singing, dancing and praising the end of apartheid 16 years ago. Nelson Mandela's old cell is a shrine of sorts. We were ushered past in solemn order by our guide, a former political prisoner.

Thoughts on politics were constantly provoked throughout our time in South Africa, this most stunningly beautiful country.

Route 1 into South Africa

We still kept look-out for wildlife as we cruised down the slick tarmac back into South Africa.

A very friendly place to stop-over, but it's not unkind to say that Kimberley is a workaday town remarkable for a very big hole. If you want diamonds you've got to dig deep.

Kalahari Desert, Botswana

As a last hurrah to Southern Africa, we dipped our toes into the central Kalahari. Inspired by '70s ecologists Mark and Delia Owens we explored Deception Pan, taking it in turns to keep a look out for wildlife from our favourite viewpoint.

We would have settled here for weeks as happy savages if our precious water tank had stretched for longer. But it was quite a job hiding it from the thirsty bees and mischievous hornbills.

Time to move back to civilisation. Pah.

Magkadigkadi Salt Pans, Botswana

Working our way back to Cape Town we were never going to take the direct route. There was no way we could resist a little detour into the central plains of Botswana.


The featureless salt pans had an austere beauty but we were happier sticking to the roads between occasional islands of rock. At Khubu Island we learned a little about African civilisations forgotten by history.

Mostly, though, we savoured our time camping beneath marvellous baobab trees.

Chobe National Park, Botswana

From the banks of the Chobe river we looked across to Namibia over water that would flow over the Victoria Falls and out to the Indian Ocean. Here on the Botswana side we hopped on a boat cruise for our last wildlife fix.

The villainous charisma of the crocodiles was never going to out-charm the local residents: hundreds and hundreds of elephants.

Animals that we were happy to observe for hours, especially when performing such feats as wading across the deep river using their trunks as snorkels.

Road to Nowhere (video clip)

The male dung beetle does the heavy sh*t-lifting, whilst lady muck hitches a ride.

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Glaswegian anti-slavery campaigner David Livingstone is credited with discovering this great natural wonder of the world.

'The Smoke That Thunders' racks up many impressive statistics. But not enough to fully assuage our conscience for the dollars we paid into Robert Mugabe's loathsome pocket.