It must've been the tango (video clip)

A little magic happened in Patagonia...

Quebrada de las Conchas, Salta, Argentina

Everybody loves a good rock formation. The geology around Salta gave us natural ampitheatres, obelisks, striped mountains, caves and chasms. As our fellow (so very young) backpackers photographed themselves doing handstands we quietly soaked it all in.

 

We were in reflective mood, content to be sensible grown ups. Our travels are coming to an end. 

        

Mendoza, Argentina

Over the Andes and back into Argentina, we caught up with our Navimag cabin-mates, Chris and Vicky, in Mendoza. There was only one thing for us to do: cycle around the vineyards and sample the local Malbec.

Valparaiso, Chile

After two weeks of braving Patagonian weather whilst sleeping in tents and boat bunks, we made a dash north for the sunshine of Valparaiso.  We liked its colourful bohemian charm and we loved its funny little funiculars.

We easily fell into the lazy pace of life but did still envy the beautiful bed of poet Pablo Neruda.

Mariscos (video clip)

Our strange craving for fresh seafood was not disappointed in Valparaiso.

Onboard the Navimag, Chilean Fiords.

The thin end of the American continent is something of a lost world. A glance at the map and we decided to follow in Darwin's wake and explore the waterways of the Chilean Fjords. Our ship for the four day sail: the MV Navimag.

At the bow of the cargo vessel us backpackers soaked up the views before retreating into the warmth of the mess to play cards with our friendly cabin-mates.

Our cruise may not have been luxurious but it was subsidised by more valuable freight. On the back deck, in even more cramped accommodation, three hundred or so cows were on a one-way voyage. 

The sea air was bracing but not quite so fresh.

The W Trek, Patagonia, Chile

Arriving at the very end of the season in torrential rain, our planned walk into the wilds did not look promising. The first day saw us walking into driving sleet toward our campsite, in the gloom by Glacier Grey.

We were committed. The forecast looked dubious but we were assured that in Patagonia we had what passes for a weather window.

Plummeting air pressure gave us thumping headaches but on we slogged. Somewhat miraculously, on the third day, the howling stopped. Our heads cleared and the views of the French Valley emerged.

The nights under canvas may still have been cold but the day temperatures rose to make heaving our packs feel like a walk in the park.

A park we had almost to ourselves, as we watched the sun rise on the Torres del Paine.

Montevideo, Uruguay

Montevideo is one laid back capital city. The most energetic activity for Uruguayans seems to be carrying their thermos flasks for mate. More than a herbal tea, a national obsession.


Historically a refuge for dissidents and bohemians, we loved its proudly arty atmosphere.

Colonia de Sacremento, Uruguay

To escape the city we took a catamaran across the muddy waters of the Rio Plata. Pleasantly gentrified, the tranquility of this old world town reminded us of how much we like silence. Even nature too. When it's not biting us.

Las Malvinas son Argentinas!

It's interesting to be a Brit in Buenos Aires at the moment. Thirty years on from the war and the rhetoric has been heating up. We may struggle to follow local broadsheet editorials but we do get the gist of the abundant graffiti.


Nationalism is easy politics. Our more sophisticated porteno friends may curse the name 'Cristina', but la presidenta knows that proud Argentinians have fierce feelings toward 'The Malvinas'. Meanwhile, we keep our heads down and notice inflation go up week by week.


Besides, if only for us, those windswept islands will always be about love...

Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires, Argentina

We've not been settled in one place for quite some time. In BA, we chose to live in the uber-trendy Palermo Soho district. Thankfully, amongst the too cool for school bars and boutiques selling vintage designer clothing, we've found a friendly bakery that sells dulce de leche iced buns.


When the posing gets too much, we retreat to our studio flat. The sheet metal and 60s style decor gives it the feel of a sort of bijou lock-up.

La Boca, Buenos Aires, Argentina

A 20p bus ride may give you an extensive mystery tour of the city but our trusty 152 takes us straight to La Boca: the colourful district that is synonymous with Buenos Aires.

Millions packed up their troubles and poured into this new world city in the early part of the 20th century. This area by the docks was where the poorest immigrants lived. A rough and tumble spirit still lives on as tourists peruse for antiques.