The W Trek, Patagonia, Chile

Arriving at the very end of the season in torrential rain, our planned walk into the wilds did not look promising. The first day saw us walking into driving sleet toward our campsite, in the gloom by Glacier Grey.

We were committed. The forecast looked dubious but we were assured that in Patagonia we had what passes for a weather window.

Plummeting air pressure gave us thumping headaches but on we slogged. Somewhat miraculously, on the third day, the howling stopped. Our heads cleared and the views of the French Valley emerged.

The nights under canvas may still have been cold but the day temperatures rose to make heaving our packs feel like a walk in the park.

A park we had almost to ourselves, as we watched the sun rise on the Torres del Paine.