Bagan is the most magnificent complex of ancient temples we'd never heard of. On a dusty plain by the Irrawaddy river, noble kings and petty despots have been building pagodas here since the 9th century. There are now thousands of them. Some crumbling, some brand new.
Bagan should be world renowned for its history and beauty. It could be a modern tourist mecca congested with tour buses. As it was, we toured the vast area with a few new friends by bicycle, fuelled by freshly ground cane sugar juice.
A knowledgeable young guide showed us the exquisite frescoes, Buddhist icons and long forgotten nooks of one of the few pagodas we managed to explore.
In truth, we gave the temples short shrift, for in Bagan we became English teachers.
Our class of young adults were so keen to learn that the cultural wonders took a back seat as we began classes in a spare space in the local monastery. We offered only enthusiasm and native vowel sounds but were soon overwhelmed, and a little embarrassed, by the generosity shown in return. Our students gave us performances of lute-playing, traditional dancing, gifts of watermelons, paintings and wood carvings and made us guests of honour at their peanut-farming village.
One day, when we return, we really should spend more time admiring the pagodas.
Bagan should be world renowned for its history and beauty. It could be a modern tourist mecca congested with tour buses. As it was, we toured the vast area with a few new friends by bicycle, fuelled by freshly ground cane sugar juice.
A knowledgeable young guide showed us the exquisite frescoes, Buddhist icons and long forgotten nooks of one of the few pagodas we managed to explore.
In truth, we gave the temples short shrift, for in Bagan we became English teachers.
Our class of young adults were so keen to learn that the cultural wonders took a back seat as we began classes in a spare space in the local monastery. We offered only enthusiasm and native vowel sounds but were soon overwhelmed, and a little embarrassed, by the generosity shown in return. Our students gave us performances of lute-playing, traditional dancing, gifts of watermelons, paintings and wood carvings and made us guests of honour at their peanut-farming village.
One day, when we return, we really should spend more time admiring the pagodas.
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