Christianity has been rooted in Ethiopia for 1,500 years. The rituals of the Orthodox church have evolved here in near isolation into a quite extraordinary religion. In 2011 (or 2003 by the Ge'ez calendar), festivals are celebrated as fervently as ever. None more so than Timkat, the Epiphany.
To witness the spectacle in Lalibela was a special privilege; this is the site of a lost wonder. Following the 12th century crusades, Jerusalem was recast here in Ethiopia as a score of churches carved directly from solid rock.
The engineering feats, with their exquisite painted interiors, formed merely a backdrop to this festival period. Priests in their finery led a long procession of pilgrims and locals to a sacred site for worship. A vigil through the night, prayers and chanting were followed by days of jubilant and rowdy dancing, feasting and water-splashing celebrations.
To escape the fray we explored the warren of excavated tunnels. We found ourselves scrambling towards a dim light only to be surprised by a cheery hello from within a small rock alcove. This friendly hermit seemed quite unperturbed by his unexpected guests.
Once the mobs had cleared we could admire the churches, not least the cross-shaped Bet Yiorgis.
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