We battled our way by local bus for another history lesson. Axum was the capital of one of the greatest empires the world has ever seen. Yet no-one seems to know anything about it, except for a clutch of myths and these enigmatic stelae.
These imperial tombstones saw their pomp between 400BC and 100AD, when the Axumites controlled a vast trading network link from Rome to ancient India. Pride came before a fall when the grandest obelisk, at 33 metres, crashed to the ground.
It now points the way to the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion. The place where, if you so believe, the actual Ark of the Covenant now resides. Quite a history lesson.
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