We were impressed by Albania's wild beauty and baffled by its quirks. An anachronism in modern Europe, but after travels in Africa we took its potholes in our stride. At Butrint, all of Mediterranean history is to be found, in a jumble of ruins by the sea.
Our many rewarding memories of Albania will be dominated by the idiosyncrasies - the ageing concrete bunkers, the checkpoint police who offered hotel rooms, the cautiously warm people and the fact that every other car is a Mercedes stolen from a high street near you.
(Ours is the anomaly with the roof rack.)
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