Tucked amongst the alleyways of tombs is the most famous of them all: the grave of Eva Peron.
Tuesday, February 14, 2012
Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires, Argentina
The most expensive real estate in the city is occupied by the dead. An entire neighbourhood of esteemed names from Argentine history resides in this extraordinary necropolis.
Tucked amongst the alleyways of tombs is the most famous of them all: the grave of Eva Peron.
Tucked amongst the alleyways of tombs is the most famous of them all: the grave of Eva Peron.
Monday, January 30, 2012
Settling into life in Buenos Aires, Argentina
The first month in the Paris of the South was, for Phil, a blur of lectures, assignments and teaching practices. However, after this intensive course (CELTA) Phil is now a fully qualified English teacher.
Any occasional break from researching grammar points was taken in our local Barrio Norte bookshop. The most magnificent one we've ever seen: El Ateneo. You can sit in old cinema seats and read in the side boxes!
Adjusting to balmy 40 degree days was helped by the discovery of helados. After extensive research we can declare that Buenos Aires is home to the world's finest ice-cream. Mmmm....
Any occasional break from researching grammar points was taken in our local Barrio Norte bookshop. The most magnificent one we've ever seen: El Ateneo. You can sit in old cinema seats and read in the side boxes!
Adjusting to balmy 40 degree days was helped by the discovery of helados. After extensive research we can declare that Buenos Aires is home to the world's finest ice-cream. Mmmm....
Saturday, January 14, 2012
First Tango in Buenos Aires (video clip)
After just a few dates, Sam sent Phil a bold text: "Shall we go to Argentina to learn tango?" Phil called her bluff. 4 years later...
Sunday, November 20, 2011
Hiking the Camino, Granada to Merida, Spain
All roads lead to Santiago de Compostela. The iconic pilgrims' walk to the Galician cathedral begins from wherever you want it to. We set off from Granada, aiming for the 400 km to Merida.
With neatly packed backpacks, we trudged through the open landscapes of Andalucia. Only every 15 miles or so did we enter a hill town dominated by an old Moorish fort.
Our peregrinations fell into a happy routine of walking, sleeping and eating tortilla and olives. Lots of olives. Occasionally we'd pass a deserted finca. Sam would put a note under the door offering to buy it and Phil would pinch the pomegranates.
The first day was fine, the second day found our blisters and by day ten we were ready for a break. Cordoba was a tonic of charming side-streets, intriguing history and the sublime mosque.
Moving on, the scenery changed beneath our boots. We trekked through olive groves, oak-filled meadows, pig enclosures and uninviting rivers. We were now in Extramedura - known for its mud.
There is a grand old church in every small Spanish town and a pilgrimage is still respected. There aren't many peregrinos on this particular route so we appreciated the words of encouragement and even titbits of cheese and wine from the locals en route.
We only had to follow the yellow arrows but we did get lost once or twice. It was getting dark when, somewhere near Castuera, we wandered off track. But, guided by the smell of boiling sugar, Sam led us into a local nougat factory for directions.
Many strides later, we reached the town of Merida. The amphitheatre, hippodrome, aqueduct and the longest existing Roman bridge were all impressive features. However, it was the sauna at the beautiful 4 star parador hotel that we really loved.
We shall return for the stage from Merida to Santiago... Only 800 km to go!
With neatly packed backpacks, we trudged through the open landscapes of Andalucia. Only every 15 miles or so did we enter a hill town dominated by an old Moorish fort.
Our peregrinations fell into a happy routine of walking, sleeping and eating tortilla and olives. Lots of olives. Occasionally we'd pass a deserted finca. Sam would put a note under the door offering to buy it and Phil would pinch the pomegranates.
The first day was fine, the second day found our blisters and by day ten we were ready for a break. Cordoba was a tonic of charming side-streets, intriguing history and the sublime mosque.
Moving on, the scenery changed beneath our boots. We trekked through olive groves, oak-filled meadows, pig enclosures and uninviting rivers. We were now in Extramedura - known for its mud.
There is a grand old church in every small Spanish town and a pilgrimage is still respected. There aren't many peregrinos on this particular route so we appreciated the words of encouragement and even titbits of cheese and wine from the locals en route.
We only had to follow the yellow arrows but we did get lost once or twice. It was getting dark when, somewhere near Castuera, we wandered off track. But, guided by the smell of boiling sugar, Sam led us into a local nougat factory for directions.
Many strides later, we reached the town of Merida. The amphitheatre, hippodrome, aqueduct and the longest existing Roman bridge were all impressive features. However, it was the sauna at the beautiful 4 star parador hotel that we really loved.
We shall return for the stage from Merida to Santiago... Only 800 km to go!
Wednesday, October 5, 2011
Historical Tour of Northern England
When back in the UK we tend not to take pictures and make wry observations for the blog. However we made an exception for a trip up North when we delved into our own past. Sam revisited university years in Durham with Brian.
Phil went even further back in time, poking around the graves of ancestors in the Yorkshire Dales.
Phil went even further back in time, poking around the graves of ancestors in the Yorkshire Dales.
Tuesday, October 4, 2011
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Summer Work
If the previous few months had been a little dream-like, by August we had to - shock, horror - do some actual work. Phil's peculiar profession turned up trumps for a high summer in the arctic seas off Greenland.
Meanwhile, back in Reading, Sam quietly carved out a new career as an English teacher.
Meanwhile, back in Reading, Sam quietly carved out a new career as an English teacher.
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Another day, another country. Moving into northern Europe, the baroque splendour of Ljubljana formed a very nice backdrop for a quick picnic of horse-meat sausage.
Monday, July 11, 2011
Dubrovnik, Croatia
We had a lot of driving to do but Croatia's coastal road made it more of a pleasure cruise.
Dubrovnik lived up to all expectations. We feasted on seafood and walked the renovated walls of this spectacular red-roofed old town, very aware of the scars of its weighty recent history.
On the opening night of the city's summer festival we jostled for a space on the celebratory harbour front.
Dubrovnik lived up to all expectations. We feasted on seafood and walked the renovated walls of this spectacular red-roofed old town, very aware of the scars of its weighty recent history.
On the opening night of the city's summer festival we jostled for a space on the celebratory harbour front. 
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Balkan Appetites (video clip)
They don't do small portions in the hills of Montenegro. As we discovered with our lovely friends Nir and Vania.
Saturday, July 9, 2011
Montenegro
Next on our zip through the Balkans: Montenegro. A tiny country that packs in as much breathtaking scenery as a continent.
In hot summer sun we drove by glacial lakes, over refreshing green rivers and through winding mountain passes. In just a few days we hiked and camped in various idyllic landscapes with our good friends, Nir and Vania (also our unofficial Balkan guide).
A true highlight, we deemed Perast to be one of the finds of our travels. Venetian in style and tucked inside southern Europe's only fjord, we're already planning a return visit.
In hot summer sun we drove by glacial lakes, over refreshing green rivers and through winding mountain passes. In just a few days we hiked and camped in various idyllic landscapes with our good friends, Nir and Vania (also our unofficial Balkan guide).
A true highlight, we deemed Perast to be one of the finds of our travels. Venetian in style and tucked inside southern Europe's only fjord, we're already planning a return visit.
Thursday, July 7, 2011
Albanian Honeymoon
A little time to recuperate on Skopelos before we set off on the drive back to the UK. Our first stop: Albania. An obvious honeymoon destination.
We were impressed by Albania's wild beauty and baffled by its quirks. An anachronism in modern Europe, but after travels in Africa we took its potholes in our stride. At Butrint, all of Mediterranean history is to be found, in a jumble of ruins by the sea.
Our many rewarding memories of Albania will be dominated by the idiosyncrasies - the ageing concrete bunkers, the checkpoint police who offered hotel rooms, the cautiously warm people and the fact that every other car is a Mercedes stolen from a high street near you.
(Ours is the anomaly with the roof rack.)
We were impressed by Albania's wild beauty and baffled by its quirks. An anachronism in modern Europe, but after travels in Africa we took its potholes in our stride. At Butrint, all of Mediterranean history is to be found, in a jumble of ruins by the sea.
Our many rewarding memories of Albania will be dominated by the idiosyncrasies - the ageing concrete bunkers, the checkpoint police who offered hotel rooms, the cautiously warm people and the fact that every other car is a Mercedes stolen from a high street near you.
(Ours is the anomaly with the roof rack.)
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