The W Trek, Patagonia, Chile

Arriving at the very end of the season in torrential rain, our planned walk into the wilds did not look promising. The first day saw us walking into driving sleet toward our campsite, in the gloom by Glacier Grey.

We were committed. The forecast looked dubious but we were assured that in Patagonia we had what passes for a weather window.

Plummeting air pressure gave us thumping headaches but on we slogged. Somewhat miraculously, on the third day, the howling stopped. Our heads cleared and the views of the French Valley emerged.

The nights under canvas may still have been cold but the day temperatures rose to make heaving our packs feel like a walk in the park.

A park we had almost to ourselves, as we watched the sun rise on the Torres del Paine.

Montevideo, Uruguay

Montevideo is one laid back capital city. The most energetic activity for Uruguayans seems to be carrying their thermos flasks for mate. More than a herbal tea, a national obsession.


Historically a refuge for dissidents and bohemians, we loved its proudly arty atmosphere.

Colonia de Sacremento, Uruguay

To escape the city we took a catamaran across the muddy waters of the Rio Plata. Pleasantly gentrified, the tranquility of this old world town reminded us of how much we like silence. Even nature too. When it's not biting us.

Las Malvinas son Argentinas!

It's interesting to be a Brit in Buenos Aires at the moment. Thirty years on from the war and the rhetoric has been heating up. We may struggle to follow local broadsheet editorials but we do get the gist of the abundant graffiti.


Nationalism is easy politics. Our more sophisticated porteno friends may curse the name 'Cristina', but la presidenta knows that proud Argentinians have fierce feelings toward 'The Malvinas'. Meanwhile, we keep our heads down and notice inflation go up week by week.


Besides, if only for us, those windswept islands will always be about love...

Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires, Argentina

We've not been settled in one place for quite some time. In BA, we chose to live in the uber-trendy Palermo Soho district. Thankfully, amongst the too cool for school bars and boutiques selling vintage designer clothing, we've found a friendly bakery that sells dulce de leche iced buns.


When the posing gets too much, we retreat to our studio flat. The sheet metal and 60s style decor gives it the feel of a sort of bijou lock-up.

La Boca, Buenos Aires, Argentina

A 20p bus ride may give you an extensive mystery tour of the city but our trusty 152 takes us straight to La Boca: the colourful district that is synonymous with Buenos Aires.

Millions packed up their troubles and poured into this new world city in the early part of the 20th century. This area by the docks was where the poorest immigrants lived. A rough and tumble spirit still lives on as tourists peruse for antiques.

Our Tango Teachers (video clip)

Our tango may still be a work-in-progress, but our teachers are showing the way.

Tigre 1 Lanus 0 (video clip)

This young Tigre fan taught us some new songs at the football. And some new words.

Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires, Argentina

The most expensive real estate in the city is occupied by the dead. An entire neighbourhood of esteemed names from Argentine history resides in this extraordinary necropolis.


Tucked amongst the alleyways of tombs is the most famous of them all: the grave of Eva Peron.

Settling into life in Buenos Aires, Argentina

The first month in the Paris of the South was, for Phil, a blur of lectures, assignments and teaching practices. However, after this intensive course (CELTA) Phil is now a fully qualified English teacher.


Any occasional break from researching grammar points was taken in our local Barrio Norte bookshop. The most magnificent one we've ever seen: El Ateneo. You can sit in old cinema seats and read in the side boxes!


Adjusting to balmy 40 degree days was helped by the discovery of helados. After extensive research we can declare that Buenos Aires is home to the world's finest ice-cream. Mmmm....

First Tango in Buenos Aires (video clip)

After just a few dates, Sam sent Phil a bold text: "Shall we go to Argentina to learn tango?" Phil called her bluff. 4 years later...

Hiking the Camino, Granada to Merida, Spain

All roads lead to Santiago de Compostela. The iconic pilgrims' walk to the Galician cathedral begins from wherever you want it to. We set off from Granada, aiming for the 400 km to Merida.


With neatly packed backpacks, we trudged through the open landscapes of Andalucia. Only every 15 miles or so did we enter a hill town dominated by an old Moorish fort.

Our peregrinations fell into a happy routine of walking, sleeping and eating tortilla and olives. Lots of olives. Occasionally we'd pass a deserted finca. Sam would put a note under the door offering to buy it and Phil would pinch the pomegranates.

The first day was fine, the second day found our blisters and by day ten we were ready for a break. Cordoba was a tonic of charming side-streets, intriguing history and the sublime mosque.

Moving on, the scenery changed beneath our boots. We trekked through olive groves, oak-filled meadows, pig enclosures and uninviting rivers. We were now in Extramedura - known for its mud.

There is a grand old church in every small Spanish town and a pilgrimage is still respected. There aren't many peregrinos on this particular route so we appreciated the words of encouragement and even titbits of cheese and wine from the locals en route.

We only had to follow the yellow arrows but we did get lost once or twice. It was getting dark when, somewhere near Castuera, we wandered off track. But, guided by the smell of boiling sugar, Sam led us into a local nougat factory for directions.


Many strides later, we reached the town of Merida. The amphitheatre, hippodrome, aqueduct and the longest existing Roman bridge were all impressive features. However, it was the sauna at the beautiful 4 star parador hotel that we really loved.

We shall return for the stage from Merida to Santiago... Only 800 km to go!